La Lama Mountain Ovens
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The best of the recipes, techniques, and methods practiced by our large extended Italian-American family - with emphasis on the legacy handed down to us by the original immigrants.

This is a cookbook-in-process project. If you try any of these recipes please let us know how they turn out, whether or not you had any difficulties, and any clarifying improvements you might recommend to make them foolproof. We will of course acknowledge genuine "test-kitchen" assistance.

Family Secrets #6

Focaccia

By Ray Zara, La Lama Mountain Ovens, 505-586-2286, rezara@parshift.com

The tastiest ingredients available at whatever time of year were incorporated into this rustic flat bread. Bakers with a lot of imagination over the years have elevated this bread to its present status. If you search enough books on the subject you will find recipes for focaccia with olives, with cheese, with sea salt, from all different regions of Italy, and on and on. The recipe that follows is my personal favorite.

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Aromatic Focaccia

To obtain the best results there are two items that require special attention. The first is the flour to be used. "High gluten" flour will give the best results for this bread, though reasonable results can be achieved by using "bread flour"; but I would not use a general all purpose flour. You should strive to use a flour that is as close to 14% protein as possible, do not use flour that is under 12% or you may not be satisfied with the results.

Herbs are the second item for special attention. Basil, thyme and rosemary are the three aromatic herbs that are used in baking this bread. Try to use fresh herbs if at all possible, though you can use dried thyme and rosemary if fresh is not available. Do not substitute dried basil for fresh in this recipe, you will not be happy with the results.

Total ingredients:

• 6 Tblsp. olive oil
• 1 large onion, diced fine
• 2 large cloves of garlic, mashed
• 1/4 tsp coarse ground pepper
• 1 Tblsp. chopped fresh (or dried) thyme
• 2 Tblsp. chopped fresh rosemary, 1 Tblsp. if dried
• 1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil leaves

• 7 cups high gluten flour
• 1 cup milk, scalded and cooled to room temperature
• 1 1/2 cups cool water
• 1 Tblsp. salt
• 1 pkg. instant dry yeast
• 1 1/2 Tblsp. coarse salt, kosher or sea salt
• 2 Tblsp. coarse grind corn meal

Place 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in medium sauté pan, add finely diced onion and mashed garlic. Cook over medium heat till onions become translucent. Shut off heat and add basil, thyme, rosemary and coarse ground pepper. Toss well and let stand 5 minutes.

Step Two: Mixing and Kneading

In the mixer bowl put contents of the sauté pan, then add the cool water and scalded milk. Mixture should be warm, but not hot. Add flour, yeast, regular salt. Mix at low speed for three minutes, then increase speed slightly for another 5 minutes. Turn out onto floured board and knead for another 5 minutes. Add flour as needed to achieve a smooth, supple, elastic dough. Cover dough with a bowl and let rest for five minutes. Finish kneading and form into a tight smooth ball.

Step Three: Retarding

Place dough in lightly oiled bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Place in refrigerator overnight. Make sure when you place dough in bowl to turn once so you will have a slight coat of oil on the top.

Step Four: Pan, Proof and Bake

Turn dough out onto lightly floured board. Using your fingers deflate dough while stretching the dough on the board to a length and width that approximates the size of a sheet pan (17"x13"). Sprinkle coarse ground cornmeal on bottom of sheet and lift dough onto the pan. Stretch dough till pan is evenly covered. Make sure dough is into all corners and is as level as possible. Cover with several kitchen towels and proof for about 2 1/2 hours. Brush top of dough with pastry brush with the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Dampen your first three fingers with olive oil and dimple dough in even rows. Push hard enough while making dimples to feel the bottom of the pan, being careful not to tear the dough. Sprinkle with the coarse salt and place in pre-heated 425 degree oven for 25 to 30 minutes You might slip the dough out of the pan and onto the oven rack the last five minutes of baking to even the browning. Place on cooling rack until room temperature is reached

Notice the short rest the dough is given while kneading. This technique is desirable on most bread dough, and you will notice a distinct difference in the feel of the dough when you come back to it after the rest. Also the slowing down of the first rise by retarding it in the refrigerator overnight has a positive effect on the texture and flavor of the bread. This retarding technique is not used on sweet dough's.

The pan of focaccia that was just made will yield a loaf weighing close to 4 lbs. It will cut into 12 generous portions for sandwiches, bread service, or the best bruschetta that you ever had. You can individually wrap and freeze this bread by the portion, or cut in half or quarter the loaf, freezing whatever you wish. Serving this bread cut into strips to be dunked in either plain or flavored extra virgin olive oil for an appetizer course will also work very nicely.

Grilled Portabella on Focaccia

Here is an idea for a great sandwich. Marinate a whole Portabella mushroom at least 30 minutes in olive oil and some fresh herbs of your choice. Broil the mushroom until done. Split one of the 12 portions of focaccia, brush lightly with olive oil and brown under broiler until golden brown. Spread a little sundried tomato mayonnaise lightly on both sides of the focaccia. Build the sandwich as follows, put mushroom on the bun, top with a nice piece of roasted red pepper, top that with 2 slices of fresh mozzarella cheese, top that with a nice handful of fresh Arugula tossed in a vinaigrette, put lid on and mangia.

Altitude adjustments: There is no need to adjust this recipe for high altitude.