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Family Secrets

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The best of the recipes, techniques, and methods practiced by our large extended Italian-American family - with emphasis on the legacy handed down to us by the original immigrants.

This is a cookbook-in-process project. If you try any of these recipes please let us know how they turn out, whether or not you had any difficulties, and any clarifying improvements you might recommend to make them foolproof. We will of course acknowledge genuine "test-kitchen" assistance.


Family Secrets #24

Frittata

By CeCe Dove, La Lama Mountain Ovens


When the holiday season has ended, after the last bit of turkey, goose, or duck has been eaten and the last crumbs of cookies cleaned up, our attention is often drawn to our expanding waistlines and declining bank accounts. Drive by the health club in December and the parking lot is empty, but by the first week in January you have to be Mario Andretti to get in or out of the lot. Whether you make resolutions at New Year's or not, we all try to lighten up at this time of year.

In January most of us are still in the grip of winter, and the light and healthy foods of summer aren't available or even particularly appetizing right now. We still need some fat in our diet and some substance to our meals. Enter the incredible edible egg; perhaps the most versatile ingredient in the kitchen. It is inexpensive, comes in its own neat package, keeps very well under refrigeration, and is highly nutritious. Indeed it does have about 6 grams of fat in the yolk; but that's OK when it is the main component of a dish that is otherwise relatively low in fat. If you are extremely health conscious you can now purchase eggs that are even lower in fat and higher in vitamin E, although you will pay a premium for them.

Entire cookbooks have been written on eggs and virtually any cookbook you pick up will have a few recipes devoted to them, not to mention the use of eggs as hidden ingredients. From the wonderful French soufflés and omelets to Italian zabaglione to the ever popular American devilled egg, the egg can be used in every course from appetizer to dessert.


Ediberta (Bertha) Zara nee Buzzelli
(1903-1972)
Pietro (Pete) Zara (1895-1972)
Mama and Papa: 1923
The frittata is cousin to the omelet of France by way of ingredients, but the cooking method and final result are quite different. An omelet is cooked quickly over a fairly high heat, the filling is added after the eggs are set, and it is flopped in half to finish its cooking. The result should be an airy, tender mass barely brown on the outside and just set on the inside. A frittata is cooked slowly over low heat, the filling is added first and it is covered to completely set the eggs. It is then reversed onto a serving plate to reveal a very brown bottom, the eggs are completely set and it has a more dense cake-like structure to it. A frittata may be eaten warm or at room temperature, and is wonderful as the main course of a light meal with a small salad to accompany it. A small wedge makes an interesting first course for a more formal meal.

As a child I have fond memories of watching my father make his own lunch of frittata. My mother did not easily tolerate anyone in her kitchen, but on rare occasion he simply took over and words would fly. He loved raiding the refrigerator to see what he could put in it. He always used the little six inch cast iron frying pan, which I still have some 50 years later, very well seasoned with endless dousings of olive oil and love.

As with an omelet you can be as inventive as you wish with the filling. You can incorporate bits of leftover chicken or vegetables and use whatever herbs you might have on hand that compliment your filling. If you make substitutions in the filling try to maintain the egg to filling ratio. The recipe below is one of our family favorites, and if you have frozen greens available is quick to put together.


Frittata

Serves 2 generously as a main course or 4 as an appetizer

  • 2 ounces bacon or pancetta
  • 1/2 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 1 medium red skinned potato, 5 to 6 ounces
  • 6 ounces cooked chopped greens
    (Swiss chard or spinach)
  • 6 large eggs
  • 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • olive oil
  • pinch of thyme
  • salt and pepper to taste
If using bacon, blanch for 1 minute in boiling water, drain, refresh in cold water, drain and pat dry. Dice the bacon or pancetta.

Slice the unpeeled potato about 1/3 inch thick, approximately 8 to 10 slices. Drop into boiling water and cook just until the tip of a sharp knife pierces easily, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain and pat dry.

Prepare a 10" sauté pan by spraying with cooking spray, taking care to spray the sides completely because the frittata will "grow" and puff up as it cooks.

Film the bottom of the pan generously with olive oil, approximately 2 tablesp. Place over medium heat and add diced bacon and onions. Cook until onion just starts to color, approximately 4 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle garlic over and cook an additional minute stirring. Place the potatoes in a single layer in the pan and salt and pepper lightly. Turn heat to medium low and cook for five minutes. Add chopped greens and salt again lightly. Toss to coat with the oil and cook for 3 minutes. Using a fork rearrange the potatoes into a single layer, patting everything down to an even compact mass.

Beat eggs with grated cheese, pinch of thyme and a little salt and pepper in a small bowl just until mixed.

Pour eggs evenly over filling in sauté pan and let cook undisturbed for about five minutes or just until the edges begin to set. Using a spatula, lift the edges and let the uncooked egg run under. Go completely around the pan doing this twice. Most, but not all of the egg will run under the cooked edges. Cover the pan and cook an additional five to eight minutes until slightly puffed and completely set. If you touch the center it should feel firm, not runny.

Loosen the edges with the spatula and work it under the cake to be sure it is loose. Give the pan a sharp jerk back and forth and the frittata should move. Place a large serving plate over top and invert quickly.

Serve warm or at room temperature.

Altitude Adjustment: Potatoes will take 7 to 8 minutes to parboil.


©1998-2006 CDove - Attributed Copies Permitted for Small Quantity Non-Commercial Use Only.
Commercial and Quantity Reproduction Requires Written Permission
La Lama Mountain Ovens, 2055 Lama Mtn., HC81 Box 26, Questa, NM 87556, Tel: 505-586-2286

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