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Family Secrets

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The best of the recipes, techniques, and methods practiced by our large extended Italian-American family - with emphasis on the legacy handed down to us by the original immigrants.

This is a cookbook-in-process project. If you try any of these recipes please let us know how they turn out, whether or not you had any difficulties, and any clarifying improvements you might recommend to make them foolproof. We will of course acknowledge genuine "test-kitchen" assistance.

Family Secrets #28

Beef Broth Based Soups

By CeCe Dove, La Lama Mountain Ovens
In Italy there is minestra which is soup, and there is minestrone which translates as "strong soup". A well made minestrone is a hearty and satisfying meal in itself needing only some warm bread and a glass of red wine to be complete. On a raw day it's even better than chicken soup in warding off the chills.

Even though minestrone is indeed a strong soup, it is really a vegetable soup; but because it is cooked in a meat broth, cannot be classified as vegetarian. If you are a true vegetarian you could adapt the recipe by substituting water for the stock and adding a nice chunk of Parmesan rind to give more body to the soup.

While the list of ingredients for a well made minestrone may seem daunting, once all the chopping and mincing is done, it goes together easily and simmers happily along with little attention, filling the house with its wonderful aromas and whetting winter weary appetites.
Minestrone cooked in a pot that will grace the table.
Because of the many regional cuisines in Italy some of the ingredients will vary and you may find many different recipes in any number of authentic Italian cookbooks. Ingredients will also vary according to the seasons. Italians are notorious for wanting to use fresh seasonal ingredients and love gardening, so a summer minestrone will be slightly different than a winter version in the same household.

When we were growing up my father loved to make his summer version using mostly ingredients from his extensive garden. This usually resulted in a battle of words because Mom really ruled the kitchen and could not abide anyone else cooking in it. We were free to sit and watch and chat with her, and occasionally she would tolerate a little help in cleaning and chopping ingredients, but she was definitely the cook. However, on his occasional foray into her domain, my father proved himself quite capable, much to her dismay. He made a great minestrone.

While some ingredients will vary with the seasons, the basic formula is fairly constant. In the spring you may choose to use the first fresh spinach while in the late summer you might substitute Swiss chard or cabbage. In the winter you would use dried white beans, soaked and cooked separately, but in the summer you could easily use fresh shelling beans from your garden or farmer's market. You would still have the basic greens and beans in either case. The same is true for almost all of the other ingredients. So by using your imagination and what you have at hand you can really customize the following recipe and make the most of your resources. That is true Italian cooking.

The second recipe, for beef barley soup, while not traditionally Italian, is such a satisfying meal that all soup lovers should have it in their repertoire. In this recipe the home made beef broth really shines through, so don't be tempted to use canned. The soup goes together in minutes and simmers unattended until ready to serve, ideal for the after-work question of "what's for dinner?"

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Minestrone

Serves six
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • 2 oz diced bacon
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 2 carrots, sliced
  • 2 stalks celery, sliced
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 potato, peeled and diced
  • 3 cups finely shredded cabbage or other greens -- or -- 6 oz frozen greens
  • 6 oz green beans, sliced -- or -- 2 small zucchini, diced
  • 8 oz. cauliflower
  • 1-½ cups fresh shell beans -- or -- ¾ cup dried Great Northern Beans cooked
  • 1 15 oz. can diced tomatoes with juices -- or -- 2 cups fresh diced tomatoes
  • 6 cups homemade beef or chicken stock
  • 2 cups water
  • Fresh herb bouquet of several stems each of thyme, parsley, oregano and basil tied with kitchen string -- or -- 1 tsp. each dried thyme, oregano, and basil and a few stems of fresh parsley chopped
  • Salt and pepper
Warm the olive oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add bacon and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Begin adding vegetables in the order presented above, up to and including the cauliflower, one at a time and cooking each addition 2 to 3 minutes. If you wish, you can prepare each one as the previous is added instead of preparing all in advance. This seems a little less tedious and the process develops a nice rhythm. At this point, salt and pepper lightly, starting with about 1 tsp. salt. Add the tomatoes, stock, water, and herbs and bring to a simmer. Simmer gently for one hour. Fish out the fresh herb bouquet if you've used it and discard. Taste for salt. Add the beans and simmer again for 15 minutes. The soup should never be watery or thin but rather substantial. If it appears too thick for your taste add a bit more stock. If it appears to thin, continue to cook it, uncovered, until more liquid evaporates. Taste again and adjust seasonings. Pass the Parmesan separately.

Beef Barley Soup

Serves 6
  • 1 lb. beef chuck, cut in very small cubes
  • 2 carrots, peeled and sliced
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 stalk celery, sliced
  • 2 Tblsp. olive oil
  • 1 can diced tomatoes with juice
  • 1-½ cups pearl barley
  • 8 cups homemade beef stock
  • salt and pepper
Warm the olive oil in the soup pot over medium high heat. Add finely cubed beef and brown well. Add carrots, onion, and celery, turn heat down to medium low and cook about 5 minutes, stirring to coat all the vegetables with oil. Add tomatoes with their juice, barley, bay leaves, beef stock, and salt and a couple of grinds of pepper. The amount of salt will depend on your beef broth, so start with a small amount (1 tsp.) and add later as you taste. Bring to a simmer and cook uncovered about one hour or until barley is soft and beef is tender. If the soup is too thick at this point stir in up to one cup of hot water or stock to achieve the consistency you want. If made in advance the soup will continue to thicken as it stands and you will need to thin it with water or additional stock. Pick out bay leaves before serving.

Altitude Adjustment: None necessary.
©1998-2006 CDove - Attributed Copies Permitted for Small Quantity Non-Commercial Use Only.
Commercial and Quantity Reproduction Requires Written Permission
La Lama Mountain Ovens, 2055 Lama Mtn., HC81 Box 26, Questa, NM 87556, Tel: 505-586-2286

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