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The best of the recipes, techniques, and methods practiced by our large extended Italian-American family - with emphasis on the legacy handed down to us by the original immigrants.

This is a cookbook-in-process project. If you try any of these recipes please let us know how they turn out, whether or not you had any difficulties, and any clarifying improvements you might recommend to make them foolproof. We will of course acknowledge genuine "test-kitchen" assistance.

Family Secrets #29

Osso Buco with Risotto

By Ray Zara, La Lama Mountain Ovens

I never thought that twenty years later I would find myself prowling around Italian restaurants in New York City's mid-town Manhattan and Little Italy, trying to find a restaurant that served this wonderful dish the way I remembered it as a young boy.

When purchasing veal shanks you should try to choose shanks that are "select". You may notice that some of the shanks in the meat case are larger in diameter than others. The larger diameter shanks are cut from the hind legs of a veal calf and the smaller ones usually come from the front legs. Shanks from the front legs are less meaty than those cut from hind legs and as a result you will have to serve two shanks per person rather than one. The hole in the bone, containing the succulent marrow, is also noticeably smaller in front shanks. The large shanks are sometimes referred to as "selects", and they should be cut 3" thick.

Traditionally, risotto is served with osso buco. Risotto can be prepared in a variety of ways, such as a seafood risotto, vegetable risotto, etc.; but you must use an Italian short grain rice to get the distinctive risotto effect. You will want to prepare a rather simple and plain risotto to accompany your veal shanks so that you don’t overpower the delicate flavor of the veal with a risotto that is too complex. Quite frequently this dish in a restaurant will be served with some type of pasta rather than risotto, but I find this combination unsatisfying.

The meat on the veal shanks is made up of well-used muscle. In order to attain the proper degree of tenderness the cooking time is very long, using an extended slow braising technique. Once you put the roast pan in the oven and begin the cooking process about 5 hours will elapse before the finishing can be done. This allows plenty of time to prepare the creamy risotto before serving dinner.

Osso Buco

Total Ingredients to serve six:

• 6 select veal shanks, cut 3" thick
• ¼ cup flour
• 3 Tblsp. olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic, slivered into twelve pieces
• 2 ounces salt pork, diced fine
• 1 large onion, coarsely chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, mashed
• 1 stalk celery, diced
• 2 bay leaves, crumbled
• 2 small branches of fresh rosemary

• 1 tsp. salt
• 1 tsp. black pepper
• ¾ cup white wine
• 10 sprigs parsley, chopped
• 12 oz. Italian canned diced tomatoes or any kind of fresh diced tomatoes.
• ½ cup brown stock
• 3 carrots, cut into thick strips
• ¼ cup butter
• ½ cup Espagnole sauce (optional)

Using a sharp paring knife, pierce each veal shank twice and insert a garlic sliver in each piercing. Lightly dredge the shanks in the flour. Using a heavy bottom skillet over medium high heat, brown the shanks in olive oil without crowding until each side is golden brown. Place on a platter and put aside.

Step Two: Assemble the roast pan and cook

Use a roasting pan large enough to accommodate the veal shanks without crowding. Place the balance of the ingredients (up to and including the brown stock) in the roast pan and mix. Place the browned veal shanks in the roast pan. Place the carrot strips on top of the shanks and tightly cover the roaster with a lid or aluminum foil. Place in pre-heated 225 degree oven. Cook for 5 hours.

Step Three: Make the sauce

Gently pick the carrots from the top of the shanks and pile them in a shallow pan. Remove veal shanks with a slotted spatula and place them in the same pan. Add a cup of water for moisture, cover tightly and put aside in warm oven. Pour the remaining contents of the original roasting pan into a food mill and pass through to a sauce pan. Skim as much fat from the surface as you can. Place sauce pan over high heat, add butter and reduce by ¼. As an option, if you prefer a slightly heavier sauce you may whisk in ½ cup of the optional Espagnole sauce after the reduction.

Risotto

Total Ingredients:

• 3 Tblsp. Olive oil
• 1 medium onion, finely diced
• 2 cups Arborio rice
  (or other Italian short grain rice)

• ½ cup dry white wine
• 8 cups chicken stock
• ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
• 2 Tblsp. butter

Place a heavy bottomed sauce pan over medium heat. Add olive oil and onions. Sauté until onions become translucent. Add the Arborio rice and mix until well coated. Pour in the wine and cook, stirring until absorbed. Begin adding hot chicken broth by the ladleful until each one becomes absorbed. Adjust heat to maintain a vigorous simmer. Continue cooking until rice is tender to the bite, 15 to 20 minutes. If you need additional liquid use a little water until rice is properly cooked. Stir in butter and Parmesan cheese at the finish.

To assemble the final dish place a veal shank in the center of the plate. Surround the shank with risotto. Drizzle some sauce over both. Place carrot strips over the risotto and sprinkle a little Parmesan cheese over all. Finish with a couple of twists of black pepper from your pepper mill. Don’t forget to add a cocktail fork to your table service. Your guests can use this fork to scoop out the delicious marrow from the center of the bone.

I word of warning if you are thinking about shortening the cooking time for the shanks. If you increase the temperature of the oven to shorten the braising time the shanks will tighten because of their makeup, and the result will be very tough and chewy shanks. They must be served "fall off of the bone tender" to really enjoy the dish, and you can only accomplish this with a low heat, long cooking time.

Altitude Adjustment: At 8,000 ft you will want an increased 5-to-1 liquid-to-rice ratio in the risotto recipe, and a slightly increased cooking time.