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The best of the recipes, techniques, and methods practiced by our large extended Italian-American family - with emphasis on the legacy handed down to us by the original immigrants.

This is a cookbook-in-process project. If you try any of these recipes please let us know how they turn out, whether or not you had any difficulties, and any clarifying improvements you might recommend to make them foolproof. We will of course acknowledge genuine "test-kitchen" assistance.


Family Secrets #30

The Pasta Soups

By CeCe Dove, La Lama Mountain Ovens


Pasta e Fagioli, Pasta Lenticchie, and Pasta Ceci, - this family of soups were an integral part of our diet throughout our childhood and remain so into our adulthood. I suppose we would classify these as our "emotional foods" - those meals that bring comfort and sustenance when we need it most. Aside from that they are wonderfully nutritious, easy to make, satisfying and delicious, and to top it off they are inexpensive. These are not delicate, light soups, but hearty meal-in-a-pot soups, bordering on vegetables stews.

During the season of Lent, these recipes play a major role in our diet because they are complete without meat. The combination of pasta with legumes or beans is a complete protein source. The recipes all work equally well with chicken broth or water, though the broth will result in a more complex flavor. While all of them can be made without meat, the pasta bean soup benefits greatly from the addition of some bacon, salt pork, or smoked ham.

In the north of Italy rice is often used instead of pasta and central Italian cuisine will substitute beans, but our regional background indicates pasta. When making homemade pasta, it is simple enough to make a little extra, cut it into irregular shapes, called maltagliai which means "badly cut", dry them and store in a brown paper bag. These will keep in a cool dry place for a month and are perfect for any of these soups. Our mother's time-saving trick was to cook extra spaghetti and sauce for dinner one day, then simply take the leftovers, coarsely chop them and toss that in the soup pot the next day - adding the already cooked pasta at the very end. You may also used purchased dry pasta in small shapes, such as farfalle or elbows.


Brother Bill and sister Gloria. 1923
Lawrence Ave., Ellwood City, Pennsylvania

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Pasta Lenticchie (Pasta with Lentils)

Serves six

  • 1 lb. lentils
  • 3 Tblsp. olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 carrot, chopped
  • 1 stalk celery, chopped
  • ½ cup tomato sauce
  • 10 cups chicken broth (canned or homemade)
    or water or a combination of both
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme ½ tsp. dried thyme
  • 2 tsp. salt or more, as needed
  • Small piece of Parmesan rind (optional)
  • 6 oz. dried pasta
  • ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Rinse and drain lentils under cold water. Heat olive oil in large soup pot. Add onion, garlic, carrot and celery, and sauté 5 minutes or until slightly softened but not browned. Add lentils, broth (or water), tomato sauce, thyme and salt, and optional Parmesan rind. If using the rind, reduce the salt to 1 tsp. and taste later for adjustment. Bring to a simmer, partially cover and simmer 45 minutes or until lentils are thoroughly tender. Check the liquid frequently during cooking and add more if the soup is getting too thick. The soup should be fairly liquid at this point because the pasta will now thicken it considerably. Add the dried pasta, bring to a boil and cook until pasta is tender, 10 to 12 minutes more. Stir in a few grinds of fresh black pepper, pick out the Parmesan rind if you've used it, and pass the grated cheese at the table.

Pasta Ceci (Pasta with Chickpeas)

Serves six

  • 2 cans (16 oz. each) chickpeas
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 3 Tblsp. olive oil
  • 2 sprigs fresh rosemary
    or 2 tsp. dried, finely crushed
  • 1 can diced tomatoes with juice
  • 4 cups chicken broth or water
  • 6 oz. dried pasta
  • Salt and pepper
  • ¼ cup grated Parmesan
You may use dried chickpeas if you wish. If so, you will need to soak and cook them in advance. The canned chickpeas are excellent in this soup and much more convenient. If using canned, rinse them well under cold water and remove the skins that are loose. Drain well and set aside. Warm olive oil in soup pot. If using fresh rosemary, add whole sprigs and sauté until fragrant, 3 or 4 minutes, and then discard them. If using dried rosemary add it to the oil and stir for just a minute. Add garlic, and over low heat sauté just until fragrant but not browned. Add tomatoes and their juice and simmer for 20 minutes. Add broth or water, and chickpeas, and bring to a simmer. Adjust salt if necessary. Simmer 5 minutes. If you want a thick soup, puree one cup of the chickpeas in a blender and stir them back into the soup at this point. Bring to a full boil, add pasta, and cook just until the pasta is al dente. Check for liquid and add as necessary to bring to the consistency you wish. Pass the grated Parmesan at the table.

Pasta e Fagioli (Pasta with Beans)

Serves six

  • 1 lb. dried Great Northern beans
  • 3 Tblsp. olive oil
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 2 carrots, chopped
  • 2 stalks celery, chopped
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 3 oz. bacon, diced
    or 1 small smoked pork chop (optional)
  • 1 can (15 oz.) diced Italian tomatoes with juice
    or 1 cup tomato sauce
  • 10 cups water
  • 6 oz. dried pasta
  • 6 sprigs parsley
  • 2 sprigs fresh sage or ½ tsp. dried
  • Salt and pepper
  • ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
I find soaking dried white beans overnight unnecessary. Rinse under cold water and drain well. Set aside. Warm olive oil in large soup pot, add bacon if you are using it and sauté for 3 minutes. Add onion, carrots, celery and sauté for 5 minutes until slightly softened but not brown. Add garlic and tomatoes with their juice (or tomato sauce) and simmer for 10 minutes gently. Add beans and 8 cups of the water and herbs. If using fresh sage, tie it up with the parsley and remove later. If using smoked pork chop, add it now. Bring to a simmer and cook until beans are quite tender, at least an hour and up to 90 minutes. Check the liquid frequently and add as necessary to keep the beans fairly liquid. You may need to add at least the remaining 2 cups of water. Taste for salt (depends if you used bacon or smoked pork or neither) and adjust. Bring to a full boil. Making sure you have enough liquid, add the pasta. Cook until tender. Add several grinds of fresh black pepper. Pass the grated cheese at the table.

Altitude Adjustment: Over 5000 feet you will need additional water or broth in all of these recipes. At elevations of 2500 to 5000 feet increase the time by 10 minutes, over 5000 feet increase the time by 20 minutes.


©1998-2006 CDove - Attributed Copies Permitted for Small Quantity Non-Commercial Use Only.
Commercial and Quantity Reproduction Requires Written Permission
La Lama Mountain Ovens, 2055 Lama Mtn., HC81 Box 26, Questa, NM 87556, Tel: 505-586-2286

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