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The best of the recipes, techniques, and methods practiced by our large extended Italian-American family - with emphasis on the legacy handed down to us by the original immigrants.

This is a cookbook-in-process project. If you try any of these recipes please let us know how they turn out, whether or not you had any difficulties, and any clarifying improvements you might recommend to make them foolproof. We will of course acknowledge genuine "test-kitchen" assistance.

Family Secrets #32

Lamb Three Ways

By CeCe Dove, La Lama Mountain Ovens

There are many people of my generation who claim not to like the taste of lamb, complaining that it is too gamy or strong. While lamb has a distinctive taste very different from beef or pork, it should never be gamy. That would be an indication that the meat is from an animal older than one year and should be classified as mutton There are cultures that prize this particular taste and use mutton quite a lot, but not Italians. Italian cooks revel in the tender, almost sweet taste of young lamb, or what we used to refer to as spring lamb. True spring lamb is no older than five months. We are fortunate today to have this available all year long, although I still enjoy it most in the spring.

When shopping for lamb you will often be confronted with the choice of Australian or American lamb. Australia is a huge producer and exporter of lamb, and while their meat is quite good, American lamb is my preference. The most notable difference between domestic lamb and imported is in the eye of the loin. American produced lambs yield a larger loin lamb chop compared to its imported cousin. The reason for the difference is that American producers manage their flocks from birth to market weight using grain to supplement managed pasture. Most Australian and New Zealand lambs are raised on steep, sparse grasslands and very well may have to stay on those pastures longer than 5 months to make a minimum market weight.

The following three recipes are all based on a single purchase of a five to six pound center cut, bone-in leg of lamb. This is a bit of an investment but from this you can serve four people three different meals, so it averages out to be fairly reasonable. The first meal of roast leg of lamb is elegant enough to qualify for a special occasion. Complete your springtime theme with fresh asparagus dressed with a drizzle of butter and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, and scalloped potatoes. The second recipe is for a quick and easy fix for the family on a busy night, and the third is a rather rustic, informal meal to share with friends. The lamb and white beans develop a mouth pleasing velvety texture from the long slow simmering and the aromas are wonderful. If after serving the whole roast you do not plan to make the next two recipes for awhile you may trim the remainder and freeze it for up to four months. If you choose to do this be sure to freeze the bone with the trimmed meat.

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Classic Roast Leg of Lamb

Serve four:

• 5 to 6 lb. bone-in center cut leg of lamb
• 2 cloves garlic, slivered
• 2 Tblsp. chopped fresh rosemary or
  2 tsp. dried crushed rosemary

• 1/3 cup Dijon mustard
• 2 Tblsp. olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic, finely minced
• Salt and pepper

If your butcher hasn't already done so, trim almost all the fat from the top of the roast. Be sure to removed the white or silvery membrane, called the fell. With a very sharp paring knife make about 10 slits all over the roast, inserting a sliver of garlic and a little rosemary in each.

Step Two: Marinate the roast

In a small bowl, whisk together the mustard, 2 cloves of minced garlic, olive oil, rosemary, and a few grinds of black pepper. Spread this over the roast, covering all sides. Place in a non-reactive dish and allow to marinate at least four hours and up to 24 hours. If holding more than four hours, refrigerate, but allow the roast to return to room temperature before proceeding. A roast this size will take about 3 to 4 hours to come to room temperature if it is cold.

Step Three: Roasting the lamb

Preheat oven to 450. Place the room temperature roast in an uncovered roasting pan. Roast for 10 minutes. Turn temperature down to 350 and continue roasting undisturbed to an internal temperature of 140 (for medium rare). This should take an additional 60 to 70 minutes. If you like your meat less pink, wait for an internal temperature of 150. Do not overcook or the meat will be dry and tough. Let rest for five minutes. Carve and serve.

Lamb Quesadillas

Serves Four

• 8 flour tortillas, 6 in. diameter
• 1 cup grated cheese (cheddar, fontina, mozzarella, or a mix)
• Shredded iceberg lettuce

• Pickled jalapenos
• 8 to 10 oz. leftover roast lamb, cubed bite size
• ¼ cup salsa

White Beans and Lamb Stew

Serves Four

• 8 oz. dried Great Northern beans
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 8 cups water
• 2 stalks celery, one left whole, one sliced
• 1 carrot, peeled and left whole
• 2 tsp. salt
• 1 Tblsp. dried red pepper flakes (optional)

• 2 cups chicken or beef broth, canned or homemade
• 1 Tblsp. dried red pepper flakes (optional)
• 1 Tblsp. mustard
• 12 oz. leftover roast lamb, cubed
• lamb bones from roast
• Herb bouquet: a few sprigs of fresh rosemary, oregano and thyme tied together with kitchen string, or ½ tsp. of each dried

Step one: Prepare the beans

Soak the beans with plenty of cold water for two hours. Drain and place in a four quart saucepan. Add half the chopped onion, one of the minced garlic cloves, water, the one whole stalk of celery and carrot. Bring to a boil and cook at a slow boil until ¾ cooked, about 45 minutes. After the first 15 minutes, add the 2 tsp. salt. The beans should not be completely cooked, only softened.

Step Two: Assembling the stew

Preheat oven to 225. Drain the beans and save the cooking liquid. Discard the celery stalk and carrot. Choose an ovenproof casserole large enough to hold all ingredients comfortably but not so big as to leave a large head space. Put the beans in the casserole, add the rest of the onions, garlic, optional red pepper flakes, sliced celery, lamb cubes, and bone. Mix well. In a bowl, mix the two cups of broth with two cups of the bean cooking liquid you saved, whisk in the mustard and pour over the bean-lamb mixture. The liquid should just barely come to the top. Add more bean liquid if you are short or spoon some out if there is too much. Add the herbs. Cover and cook in 225 oven for a minimum of four hours. The ingredients should bubble very gently throughout the cooking time. If it is boiling, turn the oven down even lower. Check the liquid level each hour, especially toward the end of the cooking time. Also check the salt about half way through the cooking. Depending on whether you used canned or homemade broth, you may need to add some at this point. The stew should be liquid enough to serve in bowls, but not soupy. Remove and discard the lamb bones, and If you used fresh herbs, pull them out before serving.

Altitude Adjustment: Preparing beans at altitudes over 5,000 feet always requires patience and lots of liquid. You will need to increase the first bean cooking time by at least 15 minutes and the final casserole cooking time by 30 to 60 minutes (30 minutes at 2,500-5,000, and 60 minutes above 5,000). You could also use a pressure cooker for step one and cook the beans about 20 minutes under pressure.