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Family Secrets

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The best of the recipes, techniques, and methods practiced by our large extended Italian-American family - with emphasis on the legacy handed down to us by the original immigrants.

This is a cookbook-in-process project. If you try any of these recipes please let us know how they turn out, whether or not you had any difficulties, and any clarifying improvements you might recommend to make them foolproof. We will of course acknowledge genuine "test-kitchen" assistance.


Family Secrets #38

Pasta Primavera

By CeCe Dove, La Lama Mountain Ovens


The past couple of weeks have been spent doing exactly what my mother did 50 years ago. The first couple of weeks in June were spent doing exactly what my father did 50 years ago. In June he planted his garden and in September she cooked, canned, froze and generally preserved the foods he grew. My brother and I share the work and the joy of a large garden here in the mountains. Working outdoors is peaceful and rewarding, and even therapeutic. For us it is a generational tie that reminds us where we came from. The best gift I received all summer was when our daughter called from California to tell me she planted her first garden. I like to think that she saw me do it so often and got such pleasure from it that it was time for her to try. Even if she is unaware of it now, it will unconsciously remind her of her roots every time she works in it or eats the food she grew.

While I could rhapsodize for pages about the joys of gardening, the truth is that at this time of year the farmers' markets and grocery stores are full to overflowing with the harvest. If you don't have the time, space, or inclination to garden it really doesn't matter right now. A wonderful variety of fruits and vegetables are available for you to enjoy.

Almost all the regions of Italy have pasta recipes that are meatless and based either on vegetables or herbs for their sauce. Genoa has given us the bright sunshiny pesto made with fresh basil. Apulia has a traditional broccoli and anchovy sauce. Sicily's cuisine is abundant with traditional pasta recipes featuring eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, olives and capers. But nowhere in my research have I come upon the term "primavera", which translates to "springtime". I believe this term may be the invention of a creative and talented American chef. It was in California that I first encountered this dish, and so fell in love with the idea of it that I began my own experimentation. It is a dish that allows your creativity free rein, and so adapts to any season of the year when you can get fresh vegetables. Our daughter grew up with it, and no doubt thinks of it as a "family secret", one which I'm proud that she includes in her repertoire. 
Papa in his garden, summer of 1969, Elwood City, PA.
Although the literal translation is springtime, late summer and early autumn, with its bountiful assortment of vegetables, is my favorite time to make this dish. It seems I often have a handful of three or four kinds of vegetables available, not enough for a full meal, but enough to combine with pasta to produce this satisfying dish. You can enrich the following recipe by adding cream in place of the pasta water if you want a richer dish, but our preference is without the cream, which seems to overwhelm the individual flavors. You may also substitute (or add) whatever you have on hand, trying to keep the proportions approximately the same. The choice of pasta shape is up to you, but a smaller shape such as penne seems to complement the dish properly.

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Pasta Primavera

Serves four

  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 1 lb. fresh tomatoes, diced
  • 1 tsp. minced fresh garlic
  • 2 leeks, white part only, sliced thinly or
    1 bunch fresh scallions
  • 1/2 head fresh fennel, thinly sliced
  • 1//4 cup fresh basil leaves
  • 1 cup broccoli florets
  • 1 cup summer squash or zucchini, sliced
  • 1 cup green beans, trimmed
  • 2 to 3 Tblsp. water in which pasta is cooked
  • 12 oz. dried pasta, cooked al dente, drained
  • Salt, pepper
  • Freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Warm the olive oil in a sauté pan large enough to hold all of the ingredients. Add the leeks and fennel and sauté 3 or 4 minutes, until softened slightly. Add garlic and sauté another minute. Add tomatoes and their juices, and about 1/2 tsp. salt. Simmer for approximately 10 minutes until slightly thickened. Do not cook it down too much because the juices will help steam the remainder of the vegetables. Add the green beans, cover, and cook four or five minutes. Add the broccoli, cover and cook another three minutes. Add the summer squash and an additional 1/2 tsp. salt, toss well, cover and cook another three or four minutes, or until all the vegetables are done to your taste. Chop the basil coarsely and add. Toss well and cook another minute or two. Add the drained pasta and a little of the pasta water (or cream if you wish), several grinds of fresh black pepper, and adjust salt if necessary. Toss over high heat for a minute to blend flavors and serve at once, passing the Parmesan at the table.

If you like spicy food, a nice addition is a fresh jalapeno or other hot pepper, finely diced. Add it at the beginning with the fennel and leeks.

Altitude Adjustment: None necessary.


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Commercial and Quantity Reproduction Requires Written Permission
La Lama Mountain Ovens, 2055 Lama Mtn., HC81 Box 26, Questa, NM 87556, Tel: 505-586-2286

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