La Lama Mountain Ovens
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The best of the recipes, techniques, and methods practiced by our large extended Italian-American family - with emphasis on the legacy handed down to us by the original immigrants.

This is a cookbook-in-process project. If you try any of these recipes please let us know how they turn out, whether or not you had any difficulties, and any clarifying improvements you might recommend to make them foolproof. We will of course acknowledge genuine "test-kitchen" assistance.

Family Secrets #47

Crab Cutlets

By Ray Zara, La Lama Mountain Ovens

During the years I lived on the east coast, I acquired a taste for blue crabs. While growing up in Western Pennsylvania this was definitely not a staple in my mother's very Italian kitchen, both because of the expense and the fact that we did not have a ready source of fresh seafood. However, when I moved to the east coast area the blue crab became an integral part of my diet, and therefore part of our family recipe book.

Blue crabs are found all over the east coast and down through the gulf states. However the absolute best  come from the Chesapeake Bay. To my taste, the brackish waters of the bay produce the finest crabs in the world.

There are many ways to prepare crabs. They can be steamed whole while in their hard shells, and while molting, they make an excellent sauté dish which we know as soft-shell crab. Our absolute favorite is a  crab cutlet or crab cake, whichever you prefer to call them. The main ingredient to make a great crab cutlet, naturally, would be the crab meat itself. With the advent of the internet and the many e-commerce sites, this delicacy is available fresh to all who are willing to pay the price. As pasteurized crab meat it is also often available in up-scale supermarkets and fish markets in the refrigerated section.

When purchasing crab meat, either fresh or pasteurized, you will discover there are many different parts of the crab available. You will find claw meat, backfin meat, body meat, lump crabmeat, and finally the best, jumbo lump crabmeat. Jumbo lump crabmeat is what we will use for our recipe. Although it may originate from any number of locales, if it comes from the Chesapeake Bay it is the best in the world.

Chef Raymond in his private lair – 2000

For a formal dinner these make a memorable first course, served as a three ounce cutlet sauced with a lemon butter sauce or a white wine reduction. If  you wish to serve them as an entree, two three ounce cutlets served with tartar sauce, a wedge of  lemon, a fresh ear of corn, and a stack of homemade French fries is the traditional New England plate. For a special lunch presentation, a four ounce crab cake served on a Kaiser roll dressed with a tartar sauce, thin slice of tomato and a crisp leaf of lettuce is a delight.

Crab Cutlets

Total ingredients to make six 3 ounce cutlets

1 lb. jumbo lump crabmeat or lump crabmeat

• 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten
• 1-1/4 tbls. mayonnaise
• 2 tsp. fresh parsley, chopped fine
• 1/8 tsp. Old Bay Seasoning
• 1/8 tsp. dry mustard
• 1/2 cup unsalted milk or water crackers made into crumbs
• 1 tbls. clarified butter

Step One: Prepare the crab cutlet mixture

In a medium sized bowl place all of the ingredients except the cracker crumbs. Fold very gently until well mixed. Drizzle in the cracker crumbs, a little at a time, lightly stirring as you add them. Use only enough cracker crumbs to lightly bind the mixture. The exact amount of cracker crumbs will vary according to the amount of moisture in the crab meat.

Step Two: Form the crab cutlets

With a large spoon portion out the proper amount of the mixture. Dampen your hands with cold water and gently form the crab mixture into a patty about 1/2 inch thick. Place each of them on a piece of waxed paper or parchment paper.

Step Three: Cook the cutlets

Use a heavy bottom skillet, place over medium heat. Add the clarified butter and bring up to cooking temperature. Pick up the crab cutlets on the back side of a spatula and place in the sauté pan being careful not to crowd them. Sauté about 3 minutes or until golden brown. Use a spatula to gently turn them over and repeat the process.

While there are many recipes available that are a variation on this theme, the one we have shared with you focuses on the main ingredient, the best crabmeat you can purchase. If you add herbs, spices, and lots of filler, you detract from the delicate flavor of the crab and defeat the purpose of paying for the best.

Altitude Adjustment: None