La
Lama Mountain Ovens
Old Italian family recipes and archives, baking tips, and
bakery gifts
Family Secrets
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La
Lama Mountain Ovens |
The best of the recipes, techniques, and methods practiced by our large extended Italian-American family - with emphasis on the legacy handed down to us by the original immigrants. This is a cookbook-in-process project. If you try any of these recipes please let us know how they turn out, whether or not you had any difficulties, and any clarifying improvements you might recommend to make them foolproof. We will of course acknowledge genuine "test-kitchen" assistance. |
Family Secrets #54Smoked Salmon By Ray Zara, La Lama Mountain Ovens |
The origin of the practice of curing fish and game by brining and smoking is shrouded by the centuries. Every culture from the Indians of the Americas to the inhabitants of Europe and Asia have practiced this method of preservation allowing them to survive harsh winters and long periods of nomadic movement. We cannot, therefore, as Italians lay claim to this exceptional cooking method. We can, however, share in its enjoyment with all the cultures of the world. There is something wonderfully fulfilling about the whole process. Perhaps it's the careful preparation, followed by the primitiveness of lighting wood fires and smelling the overwhelming aroma of smoldering fruit woods and then knowing that you have transformed a simple piece of fish or game into a number of fabulous meals that is so wonderful. In simpler words, it is just plain fun. While growing up in Western Pennsylvania, smoked salmon was not in our family's repertoire of seafood dishes. At that time salmon was not as readily available as it is today, and buying smoked salmon in a deli was prohibitively expensive, if you could even find it in our little town. It was not until later in life that I discovered the subtle, delicate flavor of this succulent fish. For the longest time, I was quite content to enjoy smoked salmon as an appetizer while dining out, or purchasing a package of smoked salmon from a gourmet shop to use as an hor d'oeuvre during cocktail hour. The quality of packaged smoked salmon runs from outstanding to forgetaboutit. The one trait that all packaged smoked salmon share is the price, which is expensive. Through the miracle of modern technology, most salmon consumed in the USA is now farm raised. This technique provides the shopping public with a plentiful and economical supply. The versatility and abundance of this fish has also attracted the attention of the restaurant industry. It is difficult today to find a fine restaurant that does not have salmon on the menu. The sheer number of ways salmon is offered is testimony to its versatility. You can have it pan seared, baked, broiled, grilled, poached, marinated, crusted, or even raw. My first attempts at preparing smoked salmon were less than desirable. Last summer we had a visitor from California, a friend and business associate of my brother in law, who came to New Mexico for a long weekend. His name is Joe Dillon. He's an avid bread baker who wanted to spend the weekend baking a variety of different breads and getting in a little mountain climbing. We managed to accomplish the breads and the climbing, plus he shared some invaluable information on how to do a smoked salmon properly. Joe very graciously agreed to let us share his recipe and techniques with our readers and we warmly thank him for his generosity. For best results you will need a proper smoke/cooker to do your salmon. We use a Brinkman smoke/cooker that has a water tray for moisture. These are readily available in the outdoor sections of many discount retailers. You will also need a couple of handfulls of small pieces of wood soaked in water to provide the smoke. We are blessed with a variety of fruit trees here in New Mexico so we always have a plentiful supply of prunings for smoking purposes. I prefer apple wood, but any hardwood will do. As a last resort you can purchase wood chips that can be soaked in water to provide the smoke. Do not use any woods that are high in resign such as pine. The heat source will be charcoal and how the charcoal is started can effect the final product. We use a little device called a "chimney". I can start the charcoal loaded in the chimney with a couple of pieces of newspaper and in 15 minutes it is ready to dump into the fire box of the smoke/cooker. I never use charcoal lighter fluid or self starting charcoal because of the noxious smells they produce. Once the initial batch of charcoal is dumped into the fire box I add enough additional charcoal to fill the box level. In about another 20 minutes or so the fire is good to go. _______________________________________ Smoked
Salmon Total Ingredients
Step One: Prepare the brine Take 1 quart of the water and heat to just lukewarm. Chill the remaining 3 quarts. Add the cup of salt to the lukewarm water in a bowl and stir constantly until dissolved. Pour the lukewarm water and dissolved salt into a large deep, non reactive pan and add the chilled water. This brine will result in a light colored final product. As an option you can add at this point the soy sauce, bay leaves and peppercorns. This will result in a slightly darker colored final product, which is what I prefer. Step Two: Marinate the salmon Place the salmon, skin side down in the brine. Make sure the fish is entirely covered by the brine. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Step Three: Rinsing the fish Gently remove salmon from the brine. Hold under cold running water and gently rub the surface of the fish to remove all traces of the salt. Repeat process on the skin side. It is very important that the fish be thoroughly rinsed. Step Four: Drying the fish Gently pat dry with a couple of paper towels. Make sure to do both sides of the fish. Be very gentle in handling the salmon. Place skin side down on wire rack. Let air dry for at least 2 hours. Longer is better than shorter. If you are having a high humidity day, keep the drying process going for at least an additional hour. You will notice the flesh side of the salmon develop a shine. This is what you are looking for. Do not proceed to the next step until this shine develops. Step Five: Smoke cook the salmon There are several things to have ready at the smoke cooker before you place the salmon into the cooker. You should have a pail of water with the wood and the sage soaking in it. You should also have an additional bucket of hot water for the water tray in the cooker. Most important is the condition of the charcoal in the firebox. It should be at maximum heat and ready to go. To load the cooker, first place the soaked wood and sage directly on the hot charcoal. Next, quickly insert the water pan empty and pour the hot water from the bucket into the pan until it is 3/4 full. Be careful not to spill any or it will cool your charcoal fire. Then quickly place the salmon on the rack and place the rack in the topmost position. Put the lid on and within 5 minutes or so you will see smoke billowing out. Do not remove lid while salmon is smoke cooking. Cook for about 1 hr. 15 minutes. If it is a real cold day you may want to add another 15 minutes. If you like your salmon a little creamier inside, deduct 15 minutes. When you open the lid you should see little white blobs of fat that have been emitted from the salmon. When the fish gives up its fat, you can be comfortable that it is done. You
are now ready to skin the salmon. Place a large platter over the fish and quickly turn it
over. The skin will easily peel off, then invert back onto a serving plate. You can
garnish the serving plate with crackers and a knife and serve immediately or you can wrap
the salmon and refrigerate it and served chilled. I like to time the whole operation so
the salmon comes off the smoke cooker about a half hour before cocktail time and serve
warm. Either way your appetizer will surely be the hit of the party. Another great way to enjoy this fish is to serve it as an entree. If this is your choice you will want to cut the salmon filets to the size you want before placing them in the brine. You will have to pay attention to the timing of the whole process so that the salmon comes off the cooker right when you want to serve it. This is a wonderful way to spend a lazy weekend day. I especially enjoy sitting on the veranda, enjoying a glass of wine while the smoking process is taking place. The sight of the smoke cooker working and the smells of the smoke is definitely good for the soul. After doing this recipe a couple of times the timing will become second nature to you and the process will become both simple and relaxing. Altitude Adjustment: None. |
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