La Lama Mountain Ovens
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Family Secrets

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The best of the recipes, techniques, and methods practiced by our large extended Italian-American family - with emphasis on the legacy handed down to us by the original immigrants.

This is a cookbook-in-process project. If you try any of these recipes please let us know how they turn out, whether or not you had any difficulties, and any clarifying improvements you might recommend to make them foolproof. We will of course acknowledge genuine "test-kitchen" assistance.

Family Secrets #55

Mussels are another of those delicacies that really aren't a part of our early family history. They weren't readily available in western Pennsylvania and they were not part of either my mother or father's gustatory background. Actually, other than the occasional shrimp I cannot think of any shellfish that was on our early table. My first experience with mussels was on a trip to Italy in the early 1970's and I can still remember my delight in tasting them. Some people will say that mussels are an "acquired taste". If so, it took me all of one taste to acquire a love of this sweet, briny, succulent morsel. And so 30 years ago was born yet another family tradition.

During our 30 years in California they were readily available, both in the fish markets and on the shore. I can remember when our daughter was about 10 years old her Dad and a close friend she calls "Uncle" Jim took her out for an ocean shore adventure, and came home with 5 gallons of mussels that they had "picked". Of course cleaning gallons of mussels straight out of the ocean is a big chore but I tackled the job and many hours later steamed up the whole bunch of them. Jim and I feasted hugely but husband and daughter said that after hours of picking, they had no appetite for them. More for me!

The mussels you purchase in the market are far easier to deal with. A stiff brush and cold water will remove any sand clinging to the outside and a sharp paring knife will remove the "beard" that is attached to one side of the hinge. Farm raised mussels are also available that make the cleaning process even simpler because they have no beard.  Ask your fish monger about them. Mussels are very perishable. I prefer to cook them the day I buy them, but you can hold them for a day or two in the refrigerator on a bed of cracked ice. They should be tightly closed before you cook them. Discard any that have opened.

How to serve them? This is another of those primi piatti that so easily expands into a main course. Six to twelve steamed with either white sauce or red sauce makes a wonderful first course, or add another dozen to each place and make it a main dish. With an honest loaf of bread and a glass of  wine you have a great light meal. If you want more substance you can cook up linguine or angel hair pasta and pour the mussels and sauce over all for a major feast.

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Mussels in White Sauce

Ingredients to serve four as a first course:

• 2 to 4 dozen mussels

• 3 cloves of garlic, minced

• 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, leaves only

• 1 cup dry white wine

• 1/2 cup chicken stock

Step one: Clean the mussels thoroughly.

Step two: Choose a high sided pot that the mussels will easily fit in to. Make sure you have a tight fitting lid. Place all ingredients in the pot and place over high heat. When mussels open, they are done. Discard any that do not open.

Mussels in Red Sauce, with Pasta

Ingredients to serve four as a main course:

• 4 to 6 dozen mussels

• 3 cloves of garlic, minced

• 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, leaves only

• 1/2 cup dry white wine

• 1 cup red sauce

Step one: Clean the mussels thoroughly.

Step two: Cook the same as for mussels in white sauce.

To serve: Divide the mussels into 4 bowls into which you have placed a portion of linguine or angel hair pasta, and pour the sauce equally over the 4 portions. Serve with a crusty loaf of homemade bread. We would recommend serving white wine with the mussels in white sauce and a red with the mussels in red sauce. Either recipe can be made Fra Diavolo by adding 1/4 teaspoon ground Cayenne pepper to either recipe.

If you would like to prepare the recipes with a Southwest twist, simply substitute chopped cilantro for the parsley and add a minced Jalapeno pepper to the cooking pot.