La Lama Mountain Ovens
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The best of the recipes, techniques, and methods practiced by our large extended Italian-American family - with emphasis on the legacy handed down to us by the original immigrants.

This is a cookbook-in-process project. If you try any of these recipes please let us know how they turn out, whether or not you had any difficulties, and any clarifying improvements you might recommend to make them foolproof. We will of course acknowledge genuine "test-kitchen" assistance.

Family Secrets #58

Eggplant Parmesan - Two Styles

By CeCe Dove, La Lama Mountain Ovens

It's at the top of many least favorite food lists and at the bottom of the most loved foods. It's a puzzle to me since it is rich in nutrients, low in fat, available year round, can be fried, roasted or grilled, is inexpensive, and most importantly has a wonderful flavor that either stands alone or complements many other foods. Maybe it's the weird purple color. But purple is the color of royalty, and when my eye catches that beautiful glossy purple in the vegetable bin I can't resist adding it to my cart. The real problem is that most people have had improperly cooked eggplant. The texture of this vegetable is like a sponge. If you don't prepare it correctly and cook it at the right temperature, it will soak up tons of oil and will have a greasy heavy and most unpleasant texture when you eat it. Properly cooked it should have an earthy, nutty taste of its own, and a rich soft texture. It will also absorb  flavors wonderfully, thus the addition of herbs and garlic in most eggplant recipes.

The eggplant was always welcome in our family kitchen when we were growing up. Back then we did not have the luxury of the many different varieties we find in the market today. We were limited to the basic egg-shaped dark purple variety still available everywhere and at almost any time of year. In my gardening catalog I count seven varieties available, from the pure white Italian to the long Thai green. But for our purposes the basic supermarket purple duck-pin-shaped eggplant will do nicely.

Our mother was not inventive when it came to using this vegetable, but she made a superior eggplant parmesan in the most traditional way. We enjoy her version greatly. For those of you looking to try a new and delicious way of presenting eggplant, we give you an updated recipe developed by Jennifer (our chef daughter). Although this recipe is a bit more lengthy, the extra steps of caramelizing onions and roasting garlic add a wonderful depth of flavor to the rich filling.

Either of these recipes would serve nicely as an entree for a non-meat dinner, paired with a crispy green salad and some good hearth bread. They would also work well as a first course in a more elaborate meal. Take your choice – old or new – or try them both.

First, a few words about preparation. Choose an eggplant that is firm and glossy with no bruises or soft spots. Store unwrapped in the crisper for up to three days. Rinse well in cold water and dry when ready to use. Do not peel for the following recipes. Most cookbooks tell you that salting and draining is optional, but I always do it for two reasons: it will remove any bitterness, and it causes the eggplant slices to "sweat", which reduces the water content and results in less oil absorption. Before slicing trim off both ends.

For the first recipe the eggplant is to be sliced across (in rounds) about 3/8" thick. This should result in about twelve slices. In the second recipe it is to be sliced along the length, also 3/8" thick, and should result in about nine slices. When slicing lengthwise the first and last slices have skin over one entire side. Place these two pieces flesh-side down on the table and slice off the rounded top to expose some flesh. After slicing in whatever manner is called for, lightly salt the pieces, place them in a colander, and let rest for half an hour. Remove them to paper towels, patting both sides carefully to dry them, then proceed immediately to the recipe.

Both recipes call for dry breadcrumbs. We always use homemade crumbs because they have a better texture and lack the chemical aftertaste of many store bought varieties. It's your choice.

Finally, to drain any food after frying, try using a simple brown grocery bag ripped open. It absorbs the oil beautifully and leaves the food crisp, while paper towels seem to make food soggy.

Although these recipes appear to be labor intensive, both lend themselves well to advance preparation.

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Eggplant Parmesan – Old Style

Serves six as a first course or side dish, or three as an entree. May be doubled.

• 1 large eggplant, sliced crosswise 3/8" thick, salted, drained, and dried thoroughly (12 slices)
• 1 cup flour
• 2 eggs beaten lightly with a tsp of cold water in a shallow bowl
• 1-1/2 cups dry breadcrumbs
• 1-1/2 cups Italian Fontina, coarsely grated (about 6 oz.)
• 1/2 cup Parmesan, finely grated (about 2 oz.)
• 2 cups, approximately, of tomato sauce
• olive oil for frying

Step One: Initial cooking of eggplant.

Arrange the cup of flour on a flat plate. Next to it place the bowl of eggs, and then a flat plate with the dry crumbs. Work with only as many slices of eggplant as will fit into your sauté pan without crowding. Slices must not touch each other. Heat a large sauté pan over medium high heat with about 1/8" of olive oil. The oil must be very hot but not smoking. Dip each eggplant slice first in the flour, shake off excess, then into the egg, and finally dredge well in the crumbs. Shake off excess and slide into the hot oil. Cook 2-3 minutes on each side or until cooked through. Test with the tip of a sharp knife. The flesh must be tender. Adjust heat as needed to keep it hot for each batch but not so hot it burns the outside before the flesh is cooked. Remove to drain on a brown paper bag. Repeat until all eggplant has been cooked adding more oil as needed. If you accumulate burned bits between batches wipe the pan with a paper towel carefully and add fresh oil.

Step Two: Assembly and final cooking.

Use a casserole dish that is approximately 8 inch x 12 inch. Place a very thin layer of sauce on the bottom, then lay in six of the fried eggplant slices. Top with half of the Fontina and half of the Parmesan. Spoon some sauce on each slice. Top with the next 6 slices, add the remaining Fontina, then as much tomato sauce as you wish, and finally the remainder of the Parmesan. Some people prefer a very "saucy" dish and others a slightly drier one (which is my preference). May be prepared up to four hours in advance. Place in 375 degree oven for approximately 40 minutes until hot and bubbly throughout. Let rest five minutes before serving.

Eggplant Parmesan – New Style

Serves three as a main course. May be doubled.

• 1 large eggplant, sliced lengthwise 3/8" thick, salted, drained, and dried thoroughly (9 slices)
• 1/3 cup olive oil, approximately
• 3/4 cup whole milk ricotta (6 oz.)
• 1/2 cup Italian Fontina, coarsely grated (2 oz.)
• 1/2 cup Parmesan, finely grated and divided in half (2 oz.)
• 1 onion, caramelized (instructions and ingredients follow)
• 1 head garlic, roasted (instructions and ingredients follow)
• 2 Tblsp. chopped parsley
• 1 tsp. fresh thyme, finely chopped (if available) or use 1/2 tsp. dried
• salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 1 to 1-1/2 cups tomato sauce
• 1/4 cup dry breadcrumbs
• 1/3 cup additional Fontina

Step One: Caramelizing onion.

Peel, quarter, and very finely slice onion. Place a medium sauté pan over medium high heat and add 1 Tblsp. butter and 2 tsp. olive oil. Add onions, 1/2 tsp. salt, 1/4 tsp. sugar, and toss well to coat onions. Reduce heat and cover for five minutes. Remove cover, raise heat, and cook until all liquid has evaporated and onions turn meltingly soft and deep ivory. This will take about 20 minutes more, adjusting heat so the onions do not fry or burn. You may have a few tips that have browned but the onions should not. Set aside to come to room temperature.

Step Two: Roasting garlic.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Choose a large head of garlic with plump cloves. Cut off about 1/2 inch from the stem end (not the root end). Cut a square of aluminum foil big enough to wrap the garlic head. Place garlic head in center, dribble with 1/2 tsp. of olive oil, salt and pepper lightly and sprinkle on a pinch of dried thyme. Wrap loosely in foil and bake until the cloves are tender, approximately one to one and a half hours. Test with tip of sharp knife, which should slide into a clove easily. When cool enough to handle, separate cloves and squeeze. The garlic will pop right out of its shell. Mash in small bowl and set aside. Do this while working on the onions to save time.

Step Three: Making the filling.

Mix the ricotta, Fontina, half the Parmesan, the caramelized onions, the roasted garlic, parsley, and thyme together. Add a good grind of pepper and taste for salt, being careful because of the cheeses. Mix well, then divide into 9 equal portions.

Step Four: Precooking the eggplant.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lightly oil a large cookie sheet (or two). Do not crowd the slices. Arrange the prepared slices so they are not touching. Brush both sides with the olive oil, using a basting brush. They will absorb the oil. Roast until tender and brown, approximately 20 minutes, turning once at the 10 minute mark. Check to be sure they are cooked through. Set aside.

Step Five: Assembly and final cooking.

Place one portion of the filling on the lower (fat) half of each eggplant slice. Fold over and pat gently to hold in place. If using individual heat proof casseroles, place three filled and folded slices in each one, or alternatively, use an 8" x 12" single casserole. Mix the breadcrumbs, the rest of the Parmesan, and the final 1/3 cup Fontina together in a small bowl. Top the eggplant with as much tomato sauce as you wish, then divide the crumb topping over all. May be completed up to four hours in advance. Refrigerate until ready to bake. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. If refrigerated, the dish will take about 20 minutes to melt the top cheese and heat through. If not refrigerated, check in 10-12 minutes. Sauce should be bubbly. Let rest five minutes before serving.

Altitude Adjustment: None needed.